This recipe requires a 3 1/2- to 4-quart saucepan about 8 inches in diameter. Do not use a large, wide Dutch oven, as it will adversely affect both the layering of the dish and the final cooking times. Begin simmering the spices in the water prior to preparing the remaining ingredients; the more time the spices have to infuse the water (up to half an hour), the more flavor they will give to the rice. Biryani is traditionally served with a cooling yogurt sauce; ideally, you should make it before starting the biryani to allow the flavors in the sauce to meld.

Ingredients

Yogurt Sauce – make ahead

• 1 cup plain yogurt
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 2 tablespoons cilantro, minced
• 2 tablespoons mint, minced

Biryani

• 10 cardamom pods, preferably green, smashed with chef’s knife
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 2 inch piece of fresh ginger, cut into 1/2 inch thick coins and smashed with chef’s knife
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin seed
• 3 quarts water
• table salt
• 4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 1 1/2 lbs), trimmed of excess skin and fat and patted dry with paper towels
• ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 medium onions, sliced thin (about 4 cups)
• 2 medium jalapeños, one seeded and both chopped fine
• 4 cloves garlic, minced (1 1/2 tablespoons)
• 1 1/4 cups basmati rice
• 1/2 teaspoon saffron threads, lightly crumbled
• 1/4 cup dried currants or raisins
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves

Preparation

1. Wrap cardamom pods, cinnamon stick, ginger, and cumin seed in a small piece of cheesecloth and secure with kitchen twine. In 3 1/2 to 4-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan about 8 inches in diameter, bring water, spice bundle, and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt to boil over medium-high heat; reduce to medium and simmer, partially covered, until spices have infused water, at least 15 minutes (but not longer than 30 minutes).
2. Meanwhile, season both sides of chicken thighs with salt and pepper and set aside. Heat butter in 12-inch nonstick skilet over medium-high heat until foaming subsides; add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and dark brown about edges, 10 to 12 minutes. Add jalapeños and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer onion mixture to bowl, season lightly with salt, and set aside. Wipe out skillet with paper towels, return heat to medium-high, and place chicken thighs skin-side down in skillet; cook, without moving chicken, until well browned, about five minutes. Flip chicked and brown second side, 4 to 5 minutes longer; transfer chicken to plate and remove and discard skin. Tent with foil to keep warm.
3. If necessary, return spice-infused water to boil over high heat; stir in rice and cook 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain rice through fine-mesh strainer, reserving 3/4 cup cooking liquid; discard spice bundle. Transfer rice to medium bowl; stir in saffron and currants (rice will turn splotchy yellow). Spread half of rice evenly in bottom of now-empty saucepan using rubber spatula. Scatter half of onion mixture over rice, then place chicken thighs, skinned-side up, on top of onions; add any accumulated chicken juices. Evenly sprinkle with cilantro and mint, scatter remaining onions over herbs, then cover with remaining rice; pour reserved cooking liquid evenly over rice.
4. Cover saucepan and cook over medium-low heat until rice is tender and chicken is cooked through, about 30 minutes (if large amount of steam is escaping from pot, reduce heat to low). Run heatproof rubber spatula around inside the rim of saucepan to loosen any affixed rice; usind large serving spoon, spoon biryani into individual bowls, scooping from bottom of pot and serving 1 chicken thigh per person. Hit with Yogurt Sauce

Serves 4